Frequent Questions
First Weeks of Use
Proper care and treatment in the first few weeks will pay great dividends in the long term. A course of oil treatment is imperative to build up a surface that is impervious to stains ensuring a long and trouble free life. Water should not be allowed to lie on the surface but wiped off immediately. Hot objects should not be in direct contact with the surface. It is only the oil that protects the surface whilst bringing out the natural beauty of the wood. After the initial coats, tops require re-oiling when water on the surface smudges rather than forms defined droplets. When the tops are oiled they will immediately darken, but will take a few months to mellow down to their final colour.
Preparation of Worktops
It is imperative that the worktops receive at least two coats of oil on all surfaces and edges before installation. Particular attention must be paid to end grain edges and all surfaces which are hidden after installation. If this is not done, the worktops may bow and split as a result.
Storage before Installation
1) Upon receipt open the parcels to check for any damage, if there is any, please call us immediately.
2) If they are not being installed straight away, repack them.
3) Finish all major building work before your worktops are delivered.
4) All render and plaster must be thoroughly dried out.
5) Store them flat and off the floor supported by evenly spaced blocks.
6) If they are to be installed in a room with an Aga, they should be acclimatised in this environment for several days before being fitted.
7) Don’t leave them in an unheated room – especially a garage.
8) Don’t leave them where they will be exposed to high levels of humidity.
Installation of Worktops
It is imperative that the worktops receive at least two coats of oil on all surfaces and edges before installation. Particular attention must be paid to end grain edges and all surfaces which are hidden after installation. If this is not done, the worktops may bow and split as a result.
Like all natural products, wood will ‘move’ in service with changes in the ambient humidity. Tops should be firmly fixed in such a way that they can accommodate this movement whilst preventing bowing. Drill oversize holes from the underside of the carcass using a washer between the screw and the fixing point, alternatively use L-shaped brackets. This should be done at 200mm intervals front to rear and a maximum of 600mm intervals along the length. Corner joints should not be glued when the bolts are tightened. However, a clear silicone may be used, especially in wet areas.
Any minor marks caused by installation can easily be removed by lightly rubbing the area with 240 grit sand paper or fine nylon wool. Any dents caused by dropping objects on the top, can be removed with a damp cloth and an iron. Please contact us for further details.
Initial Oiling (only for oiled finish)
The oil should be applied using a soft paintbrush. Remove any excess after 15 minutes with a soft cloth. It may be necessary to lightly sand the tops, with a 240 grit paper, between coats to remove any roughness. Alternatively, you can apply the oil using nylon wool, never use wire wool as it will cause discolouration.
Iroko Worktops
When delivered, the wood is pale straw in colour. With the application of sunflower oil it darkens considerably, but any variations in the colour of the boards are actually exaggerated. However, with further applications of oil, these variations fade rapidly. Within several months, all Iroko assumes a deep, uniform, chestnut brown patina irrespective of original colour. Do not use Olive Oil as it will not be absorbed by the wood. You will need to oil the worktops every day, last thing at night, for the first week. Then once a week, with the interval between treatments gradually increasing until you are eventually just wiping the worktops over with an oily rag once every 3-4 months. It is important to remove excess oil after 15 minutes to prevent a ‘Gummy’ surface forming.
Ash, Beech, Cherry, Maple, Oak and Walnut Worktops
With your order will be a ½ litre can of Finishing Oil, a blend of oils, resins and dryers, resistant to water, alcohol and food acids. This is usually enough to give the tops their first two coats before installation. Four or five further coats will be needed. A maintenance coat about twice a year, or when the surface looks dull will be all that is necessary. It is important to shake the can well before use to thoroughly mix the contents. Cans of oil should be stored in a cool dark place with the lid firmly sealed. Do not store the oil where it may be exposed to frost or sunlight. Once opened, cans of oil should not be kept for more than 12 months. When you require more oil please contact us.
How do you deliver?
We use a carrier to make our deliveries. When you order we will arrange a convenient delivery date. The delivery will be made a large vehicle, so please let us know if there is likely to be a problem with accessing your property. There will need to be an able bodied person to help the driver unload the vehicle as the products can be heavy. Goods are delivered to ground floor locations only.
Where do you deliver?
We deliver to all parts of the UK. Our prices include deliveries to UK mainland addresses only. There is a surcharge for offshore locations, please contact us for more details.
Do I have to send plan?
A simple sketch is adequate as long as it contains all the dimensions. If necessary, we can draw a computer plan and send it to you for approval.
Can I send you templates?
Yes, we are happy to work to your templates. You can either send them to us or we can offer to collect them from you for a flat fee of £30.00 including VAT.
Will I receive a quotation?
Yes, you will receive a quotation that will detail all the costs including VAT and delivery.
Can I see a sample before I order?
Small hand samples are available free of charge, all we ask is that you pay for the postage. Please contact us with your requirements for further details.
How long does delivery take?
As each order is made to measure, we don’t carry stocks of blanks. However, we usually deliver your order within 7-10 days. If you order is more urgent, then please let us know and we will see if we can help.
Can I change my delivery date?
Of course, simply telephone or email us up to the day before delivery and we will happily change the date.
Can I have the products delivered to a different address?
Yes, we can deliver to any address of your choosing, be it your home address, work address, or carpenter or kitchen fitter, whichever is more convenient for you, as long as someone is able to help unload and sign for the delivery.
What if I miss my delivery?
Our carriers will normally try again the following day. If this is convenient, then call and let us know and we can re-arrange another date. Can I track my delivery? If you have provided us with an email address, the evening before delivery we will email you with a consignment number and details of how to track your parcel on the day of delivery.
Are the goods well packaged?
Yes, are goods are extremely well packed to ensure they arrive with you in perfect condition. In with your order will be an A5 sheet detailing all the components parts of the packaging so they can be recycled.
What forms of payment do you accept?
We accept payment by bank transfer. As each order is bespoke, we ask for full payment when the order is placed.
How Heat Resistant is it ?
A properly oiled hardwood worktop is tolerant of heat, however, we would recommend putting any hot pans onto a trivet or better still one of our end grain chopping boards. Alternatively, we can machine in stainless steel heat bars for this purpose.
Is it Hygienic ?
Independent research carried out by Professor Dean Cliver at the University of Wisconsin Food Research Unit has shown that wooden chopping boards are as safe, if not safer, to use in the kitchen than plastic boards.
Professor Cliver carried out experiments designed to emulate conditions in a domestic kitchen. He found that wooden chopping boards absorbed bacteria which could not be retrieved from the wood and would therefore not present a health hazard to foods later prepared on the board. Professor Cliver found that once the plastic boards were knife scored, the bacteria would “hide” in the scores and the boards would be very difficult to clean, although this did not represent a significant health hazard.
Professor Cliver thinks that more work should be done on the merits of wooden boards as the research so far shows that wood is hygienic to use in the kitchen.
Will it Stain?
With a properly applied oil finish, the short answer is “no”. However, in the first few weeks of service some caution must be observed to prevent worktops becoming stained before they have built up sufficient protection. In particular, water should not be allowed to lie on the surface but wiped off immediately with a cloth – Oak, in particular, is prone to acquire a black stain which is very hard to remove if any iron utensil is in contact with it in the presence of water for any period of time – overnight for example.
Can I Design in Non-Standard Details ?
Absolutely! No material is more “designer friendly”. Each top can be personalised with limitless detail. The brochure illustrates some of the options, but you are welcome to think up your own.
What Sort of Oil Should I Use ?
For worktops, it depends on the type of wood. For Iroko we recommend a vegetable oil – sunflower is ideal. For Maple, Oak, Walnut, Ash and Cherry, we recommend Danish Oil (a trial can is supplied with each worktop). For End Grain Chopping blocks, we only recommend Sunflower Oil.
Can I mix Bordercraft worktops with other materials in the same kitchen?
In designing a layout using timber tops it is important to respect the structural qualities of the material if movement or cracking in use is not to develop. The direction of the grain is most important. However, almost any shape is possible if the right techniques are used. It is important, thus, that we know the location of all cut-outs and adjacent appliances which generate a high level of heat (Agas in particular) – even if you intend to make the cut-outs yourself on site. When we receive your dimensioned sketch plan of the layout required, we will – except for the simplest runs – make a scaled computer drawing showing all proposed cut-outs, joints and decorative detailing. This will be sent to you before work starts to ensure that what we make is exactly as you want it.
Can I install the worktops next to an Aga?
Yes, simply let us know the location and we can machine the adjoining end with a cleat. This is a piece of timber that runs in the opposite direct. This sits on a loose tongue which allows it to move with changes in heat. This protects the end grain of the wood and thus prevents splitting.
Where else can I use the worktops?
The worktops are suitable for use in bathrooms, bedrooms and anywhere else in the house that you may need a worktop, shelf or window cill.
How do I machine the worktops?
We offer a full bespoke service that includes all cut-outs and joints. However, if you would prefer to do these yourself, then that’s fine. Wooden worktops should be butt-jointed with a loose tongue and worktop connector bolts. Do not glue the join, apply a thin bead of silicone sealant between the two worktops to provide protection against water ingress. When machining the worktops yourself, it will be necessary to use trade grade jigsaws and routers as the wood too hard for most DIY grade machines.
How do I clean my wooden worktop?
Simply wipe clean with a damp cloth that has been immersed in a mild solution of washing up liquid. small amount of washing liquid. More stubborn build up can be removed using the oil you’ve already applied to the top and a green nylon scouring pad. Never use wire wool as the fibres will break off and rust in the surface when wet.
There are a selection of the various edge profiles available for our worktops, tables and shelves. You are not limited to one particular type of edge profile, so you can order worktops and shelving and have different profiles on each. All our profiles are free of charge with the exception of Belgravia and Bull Nose.
